dopaje.blogg.se - How to change blade on old craftsman table saw

The splitter packaged with most table saws also includes a set of spring-loaded pawls that prevent the work piece from being thrown or pushed back towards the operator. Internal stress of wood can cause the workpiece to bind the blade following a rip cut and therefore the spitter will prevent that from happening.

Second, they keep the kerf from closing behind the blade.

The workpiece I was cutting was 3/4" x 24" x 36" if it had struck me in the head or chest, I probably would have been killed. I was lucky I only lost the tip of a finger. Large workpieces kicked back towards the operator can maim and kill. If the blade catches the workpiece in this manner, it will throw it back towards the operator like a frisbee. Kickbacks can be vicious, especially, as in my case, if the workpiece rides on top of the rotating blade.

First, it prevents the work piece from rotating into the blade during rip operations, consequently preventing the most common reason for kickback.

The reason for the splitter is at least two fold: Consequently, I decided to make my own.Ī recent magazine article stated that the table saw splitter is the most important safety device for a table saw. I have shopped around for after market splitters and blade guards, but I have not found the perfect match of performance, price, and ease of use. With that said, I continue to use both table saws without their original splitters and guards. And it is at this point in the day when I make mistakes.įive years ago (March 1997) I lost 5/8" of my left hand middle finger because I was working without a blade guard, not paying adequate attention.The pain is gone, but it's something I will never forget. I am sure I am also not alone in my penchant for working in the shop beyond the threshold of fatigue. The splitters are flimsy, the blade guards are always in the way, etc. I know I am not alone in my disregard for the splitter/blade guard assemblies that come with most table saws. At least those would yield fine dust, not fibrous chunks.How To: Make Your Own Table Saw Splitter/Blade Guard Make Your Own Table Saw Splitter/Blade Guard And personally, I think because FPS IS soft and gummy/pithy, it'd be MORE dangerous than something with more attitude, lie bubinga, ipe, or rock maple. *"Fir/Pine/Spruce" (softwoods), not "first person shooter", JIC.

It's so the tooth profiles don't press on one another, which would bend your blades, make it possible for said nut to loosen and give you a good chance of ballistic carbide, to boot. If your arbor nut is that loose you have other, much bigger concerns. Which, by the by, isn't so the blades "won't spin into each other". Just stagger the teeth so the blade isn't bent when you crank home your arbor nut. If it were me, I'd limit myself to TWO stacked blades (that aren't designed for the purpose), so each has at least one lateral plane available to it for ejecta, unless it's something trivial like a bunch of finger joints. But "ripping a 1-1/2-inch dado lengthways in a 16-foot FPS* 2x4"? If you're really lucky you'll only knock yourself out. If you're making 1/2" box or finger joint cuts through the face of panel material on a sled? Knock yourself out! As many as the arbor will hold! Maybe 1/4 of the teeth will engage before you're done anyway. Species, moisture content, grain, ambient humidity, lunar cycle, mother's maiden name, along with the ever-critical "is my lumber just going to be a dick about this?" no doubt all play a role. I'm just talking theory (if you wanna call the engineering design considerations "theory") here. Now, don't take this as me preaching doom and gloom. Like, the "orbital escape velocity" flavor. And with that many teeth taking a deep bite simultaneously, any hiccup is begging for kickback.

All those middle blades take a bite, and can't shed the waste from any direction but straight OUT vertically (vs vertically and sideways). Go faster? And you just hit on the concern I'd have, after the torque considerations, of course: the blade(s) binding. Same reason rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth: fast, hack and slash removal, deep, wide disposal. That's why he have chip-breakers in dado stacks: they also serve to even out the cut, sure, but even more critically, they provide a place for all the excess sawdust to GO, and a spinning "arm" to help ensure it DOES. The more volume of wood being cut, then more waste material/sawdust there is that needs removing, QED. The other one, as briefly touched upon by the OP, is chip clearance. Especially when they're tearing through a substance as chewy as wood.

It DOES take significantly more energy to move that many large blades. It is dangerous for two reasons: first, as stated, torque. I know I'm really late to the party on this guys, but since I only heard half of the answer, I want to toss in.